So, this Thursday and Friday I was supposed to be off work at surf camp because I had this family reunion-esque trip planned to go camping at Kennedy Meadows. If you don't know where that is don't worry nobody does..basically its somewhere off the 395 in the middle of nowhere. But this trip is something that we do every year and this year was to be the 20th time heading up 9 Mile Road to see the fam bam. Well last minute I was asked to cover a shift for a tour group at the camp on Thursday, I decided I could pull that off and went ahead and took the shift. There are a couple things that I know about the tour groups that roll through our camp. The first thing I know is that these kids are a bunch of foul mouthed East coasters that are just stoked to see some waves and try surfing. The second, and most important thing for this story, thing that I know is that without fail they will always be about 2 hours late. So when we are told to be there at 9am for the lesson I know I have about 2 hours of surfing time to myself. So I decided that if I were going to be out there early surfing I would bring my new 5'6 single fin to see what it can really do.
As I rolled up to Bolsa Chica, I received quite the greeting from all the kids at surf camp because they did not expect to see me there. I checked the surf conditions and saw that there would be a little bit going on to pull the board out. I jumped into my wettie and ran out to the water. As I paddled out I noted that most everybody out there was out on a longboard, but figured I could make the little 5'6 work. As the first set of my session rolled through I was happy to see that there was more size than the report had predicted and the South swell was lining up nicely. I took the first wave and hopped to my feet...the board felt good. A few waves later I got to my feet and headed down the line (I'm still not sure what I was thinking, but I went for it) put in a little cross step and slid five piggies over. I had never thought that my little 5'6 hull would have enough buoyancy to go five over, but I was stoked to find that out. The rest of the session didn't produce much to talk about other than my attempt to go drop knee into a barreled out right..too bad Bolsa Chica doesnt barrel well and it all closed out. Either way, its nice to know that the new board has a few tricks up its sleeves.
Ha..so I didn't actually get any pictures of the surf that the South swell is producing, but we will call this my artists rendition. I know it couldn't have looked like this, but isn't that how it always works in our heads? Everything seems just a bit bigger when we think back about it.
I sure hope that this South swell keeps up this next week since I am finally done writing all those late night papers and the US Open is upon us.
Unitl next time...praying for surf.
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