just a little fish trying to survive in this great big ocean...

Wednesday, February 23, 2011

Darrin, this one is for you.

So for some time now, every time I am trying to figure out what I want to draw as an addition to my class notes Darrin has insisted that I add a picture of a guy dropping in to a wave from a helicopter. Now I know these are just pictures and as long as I can imagine it I can put it down, but I try to keep fairly true to the physics of surfing. The helicopter drop in is not quite kosher for surfing physics. So here is my interpretation of how goes down. Well...sorta...Darrin added his own twist.
And thanks to the The Clause for providing our canvas.

This is how it started; guy drops from the helicopter and puts himself in the impact zone...
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Darrin didn't feel this was good enough, so the helicopter needed to be in some sort of danger. Enter the rocket...
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But where did the rocket come from? Of course it is from the government spaceship that has an anti-surfing disposition...
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If you are going to do something in space then you had better have some aliens stealing a cow, because everybody knows thats how things go.
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In a combined effort we put together quite the epic little picture. I am just so sure that this has to be happening every day and we just don't hear about it on the news.
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Well, there you are Darrin. The surfing/helicopter picture has been made. I hope you are happy with this one....

Getting Schooled

It's been a while since I have posted anything on here. That mostly has to do with the fact that I haven't had the chance to surf in a while. Life has been pretty busy with work, moving prep, and class. But that doesn't mean that I haven't been thinking and dreaming about getting back in the water, and once again the class notes illustrations are evidence as to what's on my mind. I guess you could say I am really getting my moneys worth out of school...huh....

Enjoy.

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Finding shade.
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No dropping in.
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Ducking out.
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Take off.
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Trimming.
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Off-the-point.
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Sunday brings a move to Newport Beach, so let's hope that it brings more surfing and less dreaming.


Until next time...praying for surf.

Sunday, February 6, 2011

Surf and Turf

Happy Super Bowl Sunday!! And to those of you who participated in the Huntington Beach Marathon or Half-Marathon...Congratulations on your achievement, I have much respect for you and someday hope to get there.

My brother is one of those who went out and ran the Surf City Marathon this morning, and because of that I went to be there and support him as he came in to finish his 26.2 miles. Deciding to take advantage of the fact that I was already to be in Huntington Beach I brought the 5'8 RNF along for a little paddle out. I had known that because of the marathon PCH was going to be closed from Beach Boulevard to Warner Avenue, so I had this great idea to bring my bike along so I could bike in to Bolsa Chica and get some tasty waves all to myself, but timing didn't work out and I decided to just go out at Sunset Beach right near where I had parked. It was better than I had seen it in quite a while, but I was still left wishing for a little more size to the waves today. I caught a couple fun little waves, but today's outing really cemented in my mind my desire for a longboard to make the most of these little days. The fish is great, but sometimes you just need a little more board under your feet to get things going.
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After my little surf session I headed over to the finish line and watched my brother and uncle finish up the marathon and half-marathon. Someday I will get my act together and finish a marathon...but not today. So after checking out the new community in Newport real quick we headed on over to Chronic Tacos for some grubbing. It was nice spending a day in my new turf. Watch out NB it's about to get gangsta up in here. Not a bad day...and all before the big game takes place. Too bad I am working instead of watching, but that's life.

Until next time...praying for surf.

Tuesday, February 1, 2011

A View from the Cliffs

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I don't know how many of you out there have experience surfing 204 in San Clemente, but I had an interesting experience today with my paddle out. 204, most of the time, breaks very near shore and best on a high tide, but today it was breaking way out in deeper water, about twice as far out as I have ever seen it break. Granted, today was very very low tide, today's paddle out was still a one of a kind.
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I showed up today, at the top of the cliffs to check the surf, with delight of seeing some size to the waves. Now, this may not usually be the most exciting thing in the world, however this hasn't been the best winter in the world for Orange County swells so seeing some waves is a good thing. I suited up and hiked down the stairs with Nick to catch some waves on the 5'8 ...Lost RNF. I have to say one reason that I really love surfing at 204 is because there is essentially no paddle out, but today asked quite the paddle just to get to where the waves are breaking. With all my excitement for the size in waves I had seen, I was highly disappointed when I got out there and found that all the waves I had seen outside were extremely blown out and everything inside was closed out. Not the best day I've ever had. Given the conditions, the few waves I did get were pretty fun.
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Blown out and closed out left us with one option, we were out...of the water. It's hard to be excited when it's just no good. As fun as every paddle out can be, sometimes there is just only so much you can do to make the most of the waves you are given. Let's hope that 204 gets back to normal and gives us some fun winter swell sometime soon.

Until next time...praying for surf.