Finding a place to park the second time around wasn't looking any better than the first try, but after a few minutes I found a spot for a quick sweep in. I really hate parallel parking, but it went off without a hitch, it was just too easy. I should have known that something was going to go down. Even putting on my wetsuit was surprisingly much easier than I could have imagined. I haven't had a such an easy time with a wetsuit since last summer during surf camp when I was using it every day. Yet another sign that all was right with the world. So I grabbed my board and headed out to check the conditions to find that there were quite a few surfers out in the water, but I didn't see any waves. Once I got to the water's edge and was slipping into the top half of my wettie I started to see just why everybody was out. The set came in and waves were clean!! I found myself getting ready to paddleout into the cleanest biggest waves I have seen at Jetties since I moved to Newport Beach. The ocean had spoken and I was there to hear what it had to say.
The paddleout was nice and easy, the next thing I knew I was right in the middle of the lineup with half of Newport. Even with so many bodies in the water I managed to grab a couple fun rights, but I kept hope alive that I would find that left I so longed for. A couple minutes later I saw a wave coming in and I was the only one in the right place for it. I started paddling for the wave and as it got closer I saw an opportunity for going left. Paddle, paddle, paddle, I had the wave and snapped to my feet. I know I always have a tendency to lean too far back from my snowboarding experience, so I made a point of leaning forward to make sure I didn't ruin my chance at this wave. I hit the bottom-turn and my nose was going under. I know what its like to go face first and I can't say that its my favorite thing to do. A quick little adjustment of my weight brings the nose out of the water and I am making my way down the line on a clean set wave that Jetties had gifted to me. My "little adjustment" slowed me up on my journey down the line, which set me back right under the crest of the breaking wave. I looked to my right and realized that I was having a new experience; there was water falling down and I was covered. Covered, but not submerged. Without meaning to, I had found some shade and spent a couple seconds in the green room. I always watch videos where people are getting shacked and there are shots from in the tube, but until you really feel it for yourself there is no way to explain the feeling on being barreled.
I don't have any picture, but I wish I did. Story of my life though. My best waves never have evidence. I need some homies to photog my adventures. Oh well, that's the way things go sometimes. The Panda board did its job, and the third time taking it out found me with some crazy surf stoke.
The experience is crazy. All of a sudden I have that crazy surf stoke again. The stoke you get after catching your first wave and then all you can think about is where that next one is coming from. You always remember the first wave, and I am sure I will never forget the experience of the first time I got barreled. I always thought it would be cool to get shacked, and it is, but it happened so fast I feel like I need so much more in order to get that feeling back. I'm an addict. And I love it.
It was hot out there today, but the ocean tried to help me keep from getting a sunburn. How nice of Mother Nature to be looking out for me like my own mother does.
Until next time...praying for surf.
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