-Beachside graffiti in California.
It's funny how such a little thing says so much about what surfing does to people. I know for me, the more I surf the better I feel. Maybe it's that, or maybe it has something to do with the fact that every time I get a wave I want the next one that much more, but every time I paddle out I feel the need to surf more and more. It is like some kind of disease that I don't want to get rid of. Having surfed every day for the past 3 days leaves me feeling lost at the thought of not getting my head wet the next day. Can you be addicted to surfing? If so, I like it, no twelve steps for me....
So onto the surfing....
For the first time since I started this blog I went surfing and did not write a post. Yesterday I went out for a super short little session and didn't get a chance to post about it. I finally got to experience what it is like to live so close to the beach and the advantages that it allows me. You see...Saturday morning meant an early morning meeting at work with everybody before the store opened. So at 7am I am at work for a meeting, but I also had a shift scheduled for closing, so I knew that I would have to be back in order to work some more. This gap in time yielded my opportunity to test out a rush session. So recalling back to the days when Ben and I had worked on our military timing, I strolled home and in a swift move we loaded up the boards and wetsuits in the truck. It was a short 45 minute session, but it yielded some really fun little waves and some good times at Jetties once again. We had to be watching the time so we played the last wave game (in which I dominated Ben by getting 3 waves to his 1). Quickly back into the truck without changing out of our wetties, we got back to the house and just like that our session had been accomplished.
We had some really fun waves and all in the shortest session I have paddled out for in quite some time. It's nice to know that I always have the option to pull something like that off.
But to think that Ben and I would not try for another session today is nieve. 8:30am hit the clock and our alarms blared throughout the house. It doesn't matter how little sleep we get; there is a fever going around and the only cure is more surfing...yep, we have got the bug.
So I finally got may act together and remembered to bring my camera out with us. I bestowed the honor of wearing the wrist mount I have for the camera because I had to watch the time once again for work and needed to be wearing a watch. Ben had some fun with the camera filming some video and taking a couple pictures. I now see that operating this camera in the water while trying to surf is going the be an art that demands practice. Given that, Ben managed to snap this photo:
I thought it was a pretty cool view.
Unfortunately, the day I finally remember to bring my camera out is the day least worth talking about this week. It was not a total disaster, I some fun with a couple onshore backside cutbacks, but for the most part the waves were just pretty blown out. This leaves us looking ahead for some better surf as we move into the next week. It looks like we have some swell building up Tuesday and hopefully moving into Wednesday. On that note....
Until next time...praying for surf.
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