Danny Fuller knows which way is up.

Danny Fuller - PM Approved from RVCA on Vimeo.

A video tighter than your girlfriend's pants from Danny Fuller and the boys at RVCA about what they have been up to lately.

Thoughts of Life and Surf

Let me just begin by saying that if the first part of this post offends you, well then, I am sorry, but there is nothing I can really do for you, maybe its time to retire and become a beach bum.

So...I went surfing today. Yeah that 8am wake up call that I haven't had in quite some time showed up. It's funny though to think, when I set my alarm for 8am to go to work or class I get so annoyed when it goes off, but when it goes off on a day when I'm headed out to surf...I actually get pretty excited.
Anyways...I took the alaia out today to give it a try and things didn't go so well. It may help if I decided to paddle out on a day when it's not a lake out there. That's about all I have for that story, but to the real point of writing this post....


Here I am sitting on my bed thinking about my little paddle out this morning and I came to the realization that any day I get to paddle out for a little sesh becomes a good day. Now this idea of a 'good day' takes its role in a couple different ways. A day can be classified as a 'good day' by the mere fact that after a surf session I am put in such a good mood that it would take quite the fiasco in order to ruin my day. Another way in which a day could be classified as a 'good day' is in the sense that in order to get cleaner waves you just have to get up early and go before the wind picks up, based on that, my day just gets started that much earlier. Seeing as how I only ever have evening classes and the schedule of a Tilly's Sales Associate is not demanding of the early morning hours, I am never required to be waking early. It's funny how when you are arriving home just after 11 in a post surf state things feel so good, but on most days I am barely rolling out of bed around that time. It feels nice to know that I have at least done something with my life...at a reasonable hour.
This leads me to a pattern of thinking about where I would like to live. Hmmmm, I missed conveying some information here. Let's backtrack. The lease for our apartment is up in February, and while we have enjoyed our time in Yorba Linda, the rate for the lease is raising and we would like to keep costs down. This has brought us to a search for a new apartment. We set a day to take a look at several apartments a while ago; some in the Santa Ana area and others in the Huntington Beach area. I think that has us caught up. So one apartment that we looked at was in Newport Beach about a mile from the coast. Anyways...all this thought about how I feel after a paddle out leads me to thinking that the closer my proximity to the beach, the better I will feel. I know this seems simple, and yet it is the little things during moments of reflection after surfing can just make things rather obvious.

I'd say that this blog usually will remain on the actually surfing of the day, or at least more related to the surfing, but with the current situation at hand and not much to speak of for the waves today...this is what we got.

Until next time...praying for surf.

New Toys!!!

I went on a little trip today in order to pick up a new toy. Inspired by having seen people out on the alaia surfboards a few times now, I found one decently priced and picked it up. These boards are pretty cool, no fins, it feels really retro. A board like this also makes for a pretty cool wall piece when its not out in the water.




I can't wait to get this thing out in the water. I know the learning curve on these things is pretty steep, but I think it should be fun going for it.

How does a surfer make it through class each week?

Here are some pictures that made it into my notes for class. This is how I keep myself awake during each class....

Airing out

Rooster tail

Checking the surf

Hanging out in the Pope's living room

Going vertical

Bottom turn

Hitting a little floater

Duck-dive

Getting out alive

Hand-stand

180º

Hitting the lip (this one was far too quick of a sketch)

Ten piggies over

Big turn

And just for fun, 'cause it was already drawn in the notebook....

Merry Christmas

Here are a few pictures my Dad took of my little Christmas Day session. Unfortunately I was the only one willing to paddle out (and there were basically no waves), but its okay that just means all of the presents are for me....
It was just fun to paddle out on the 6'2 Single Fin







Until next time...here's praying for surf.