Merry Christmas

Here are a few pictures my Dad took of my little Christmas Day session. Unfortunately I was the only one willing to paddle out (and there were basically no waves), but its okay that just means all of the presents are for me....
It was just fun to paddle out on the 6'2 Single Fin







Until next time...here's praying for surf.

Just so pure.

Alaia & Machado from 360 To Nowhere on Vimeo.

I came across this video today. It's just such a pure representation about what the connection to the ocean looks like. Rob Machado is a real waterman.

Pancake Expectations

Finally made my way back to the ocean today. Frothing to get my head wet, all just to find that it was flatter than a piece of paper. There was absolutely nothing ridable going on. Nick and I made the executive decision to wait it out and hope that the tide coming in would bring up some bit of swell. Thus a day of putzing around to kill time and wait for surf. As we made our way back to 204 to check the conditions we were highly disappointed to find not much had changed and we weren't looking at anything special. All the expectations that we had for our sesh today were pancaked. Regardless we found ourselves so desperate to surf that we looked for every excuse in the book as to why we should go for a paddle out. A little background; Nick had just gotten his hands on his brand new 5'10" stick and wanted to see what it could do. At the end of the day we wanted to surf and gave it a go. A quick little drive around to the cliffs and a day hike down all those stairs to the water's edge, we were there. With my 5'8" RNF in hand I waded out to where I thought I might find some waves. As expected, we didn't catch much. I had the wave of the day, which meant I got to stand up and make that little left-hand turn, but it's pretty sad when that's all you get.
All I know that I'm still jones'n to surf and today's little sesh didn't do much to settle that for me.
I'm hopeful for that real winter swell to hit and get some real waves.


Until then we'll keep praying for surf....